Weekend in Accra

Things fall apart (Chinua Achebe)

Just finished ‘Things fall apart’ by Chinua Achebe, the most-selling novel written by an African author. If you’re going anywhere in Africa or if are interested in indigenous African culture, it’s great and easy to read, just about 180 short pages. Since the African languages do not have an established written tradition, the amount of literature produced is still small compared to other language groups, and indeed ‘Things fall apart’ was written in English – although at a later point Chinua Achebe started writing in the Obi language. 

Recently 50 cent wanted to name his new movie Things fall apart. When Chinua Achebe found out he stopped that, but 50 cent was persistent and offered 1 million US dollars for the title... Achebe declined!

Bokoo (learning Twi - the Akan language)

Once in Ghana, if someone asks you Wo ho te sen? you answer: Me ho 3y3! (‘I’m fine!’). This is Twi, the language spoken by the Akans. à en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Akan_language. I’m now studying Twi every Wednesday after work together with 9 other ex-pads and interns. 52 % of Ghanaians speak Twi - making it the most spoken indigenous language in Ghana. The Akan ethnic group spreads over most of the southern part of Ghana, and also the Akyem people – who I am working with - is a part of the Akan ethnic group.

79 indigenous languages

Although English is the language used for all governmental purposes, there are 79 different languages in Ghana, many of them being as different as Greek is to English or even to Chinese, at least according to the ‘experts'. Various languages belong to the same language group, but between these language groups the differences can be quite large. Some Ghanaians I have met claim to speak up to as many as 8 different indigenous languages - typically acquired as they have moved around the country with their family, in search for jobs, through their occupation as e.g. drivers, or a combination of these. 

For a categorizing list of Ghanaian languages check out this link:  http://www.ghanaweb.com/GhanaHomePage/tribes/languages.php. 


Mepaakiew, bokoo!
Often Ghanaians don’t speak English very well, so knowing a couple of words in a local language can be useful. To get back at the Ghanaians when they call ‘oburini’ (white person) a good way to reply is to say: Obibini (black person) showing that you understand what they're up to! By the way, if you want to dress your tongue to impress, when someone asks you Wo ho te sen?, you can also reply ‘Bokoo’… (you are cool, chilled, taking it easy). 

Same thing if you want a taxi driver to slow down, you can say 'Mepaakiew, bokoo', meaning, 'Please, take it easy'. The Ghanaians are very respectful and not to say please to a stranger before asking for something would be considered as rude and as a reason for someone not to do what he was being asked for, although that actually happening would be quite unusual. As a Westerner you are often excused for your lack of awareness of local customs, but being polite and asking people how they are doing can gain you some extra points.

Games in Ghana (football and drafts)

Playing football wearing my white IBP United outfit has given my outfit a shade of red from the dust which is everywhere… Ghanaians have excellent flair and skill, both in the offence and in the defence, but they are really not strong as a collective…

Bought a drafts game (checkers), and learned to play with Ghanaian rules. Ghanaian rules? All tricks are allowed, so precaution and creativity is rewarded! (And sometimes a bit of luck comes in handy). Oh, by the way, the rules are up for discussion. Chiefs are usually not allowed to play drafts because humiliation is at stake.

Together with the 4 interns at the Danish embassy I saw Ghana beat Swaziland 2-0 at the Accra Stadium! The supporters form different groups each singing and drumming their own songs and dressed in the colours of their own group, not the team they are supporting… The resulting noise – a humming, drumming, vibrating feeling – was as loud as if a goal was being scored every moment of the match. At least there was no change in the volume on the occasions when that did happen.

Food

Although some of the local delicacies are delicate, they are quite often quite… different... and high in starch and strong pepper. It can put your stomach and your courage to work! One thing I had to pass on after one – *PROUD* – mouthful was a snail boiled in a green soup, similar to the black snails we find in the forest in Denmark, except bigger, and with eyes and feelers… My favourite on the other hand is the snacks and drinks… Juices, nuts, different kinds of doughnuts, corn juice, palm wine, pito (corn beer)…. 

On this picture (above) I am drinking a coconut which had moments before been cut down by Daniel (below) who is a community member participating in the activities arranged by Wacam and IBIS.

Compound 2

Last Saturday, Marisa from Austria and Simonne from Switzerland bought three chickens (Harry, Leo and Sven) and built a small house for them together with Philo the landlady's 9-year daughter. The chickens have laid two eggs, so far! 

Geckoes are literally everywhere. The most common one is called the compound gecko, because you see it in everybody’s homes… One is running around on the floor right now, as I’m sitting in our outdoor common area at the compound.

Flushing the toilet requires precision and persistance, or that you are willing to leave the work half done!

Back on the blog!

Mmm… espresso! Laura from Switzerland has brought one of those Italian espresso-makers, which is a sweet deal... Most restaurants don't serve coffee, and if it is there it's usually Nescafé. While drinking my double espresso, I have written a couple of posts about everyday experiences and things I have done in the last month. 

I've been too busy to write on the blog, but I've tried to get a bit back on track today writing about the experiences of a visitor in Ghana. Soon I'll also be writing about my experiences in the communities affected by gold mining and describe my work here. 

Pictures will be coming!